Marmalade’s transition from prime place at supper to breakfast may well have coincided with the introduction of another bitter-sweet dining rival that soon reigned supreme – chutney. An anglicized version of the Indian word ‘Chatni’, meaning strongly spiced, chutneys transform an ordinary cheese, cold meat or fish, classic curry, or nut roast into something extraordinary – a delicious feast. Simmered gently and slowly over long periods, and infused with traditional spices and homegrown herbs, chutneys are rich, gastronomic delights. In essence it is the combination of flavours – gooseberry with tarragon, roasted nectarines with rosemary, elderberries with juniper, or roasted beetroot with horseradish; but it is also the surprise of walnuts, the smokiness of garlic or extra chilli heat that creates a truly culinary experience.